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"The French term café, in the larger sense can be applied to any establishment where you can stop in for nothing more than a beverage and stay for as long as you like. That all-important distinction explains why all bistros are not cafés, though the two designations are often used interchangeably. To be considered a café, a bistro must welcome, at least during specified hours, those who want only a glass of wine or a cup of coffee. Bistros that open their doors exclusively for lunches and dinners can take after restaurants more than they do cafés. Indeed, the confusion, when it arises, usually comes from fashionable restaurants that call themselves bistros, since the stylish designation makes them sound both cozy and sophisticated, though they lack the humble, homey, and hospitable virtues of the bistro soul.
Brasseries, too, qualify as cafés, no matter their elegance, if some of their tables can be occupied solely for the consumption of beverages. The famous brasserie La Coupole is therefore a café; Boffinger is not. The term brasserie, from the word brasseur (brewer), originally indicated establishments that served beer. But now it specifies grand café-restaurants offering continuous service and, as a result, rough-and-ready food. Brasseries specialize in dishes that can be cooked quickly (sole meuniere, steaks) in advance (gigot 'd'agneau rôti,-roast let of lamb, choucroute garnie-sauerkraut with meats), or not at all (steak tartare, raw oysters) and don't need to be constantly fussed over by a highly skilled chef. These are the same attributes that make café cooking so practical and doable for the home cook."
Quoted from "Paris Café Cookbook" by Daniel Young
Reserve if possible! Restaurants do appreciate knowing that you are coming. Often, as we are strolling through the neighborhoods, we will see a restaurant we want to try later and pop in to reserve for that evening or another day.
By doing this we are allowed to see what restaurant looks like, what the menu is and also saves us having to make a phone call for the reservation. It's always nice to know where you'll be having your next meal and that you won't be turned away and have to settle for something you had not planned on. Good Parisian restaurants are usually busy, filled with not only tourists, of which there are always many, but the Parisians like to eat out also.
Gratuity is always included in the total bill but we always leave a cash tip in addition...5% or so depending on the restaurant. Just a nice thing to do especially if the server was helpful with menu, directions, etc. and you happen to be in the business!
If you are not comfortable telephoning for a reservation I suggest that you pass by the day before when these restaurants will be open and reserving your table at that time. If you eat early between 7 and 8 PM you should have no problem being seated as most Parisians eat later in the evening.
Le Napoleon III near the Buttes du Chaumont in the 19th at 1, Place Armand Carrel (Metro: Line 7bis: Buttes Chaumont)
This is an ideal place to sit with locals, inside or on the terrace, and have a perfectly served traditional lunch. Their omelets are the best and the restaurant was given an excellent rating by the Paris newspaper Le Monde. I suggest lunch if you've not packed your own for eating in the beautiful Buttes Chaumont just across the street.
Brasserie du Nord: 10th Arr. Across from the Gare du Nord in the Hotel Terminus.
We've eaten here several times over the years and found it to be excellent. It is also one of the historical monument restaurants of Paris. We love the art nouveau/deco interior and the gleaming polished curved copper bar. Their specialty is seafood as is evidenced by the fresh fish, oysters and shell fish displayed on the street corner. If you sit in back of the restaurant on the left side you'll have quite a show as you see the waiters sliding by on the wood floor as they hurry to tables carrying great trays of seafood.
While at the Louvre be sure to try the Café Marley located in the left wing on the courtyard facing the pyramid. We've eaten there many times and prefer to sit outside overlooking the courtyard. They also serve breakfast from 8AM.
Cafe de la Croix Rouge: 6th Arr, Metro: St. Sulpice. From Blvd. St. Germain take rue Dragon to the Square de la Croix Rouge.
This is a little cafe that Kati and I always go to when in the 6th and want a quick lunch with the locals. It is always packed. Their 'assiette St. Germaine" is a simple open faced sandwich on a special toasted bread called "Poilâne" with thin sliced rare beef, cornichons and a special vinaigrette. It is excellent, served with salad. When lunch was served at La Bohème we tried to serve it but couldn't find the right bread. You'll be able to see the stunning sculpture by Cezar in the Square in front of the the cafe. On the nearby rue du Cherche Midi, #8 you can visit the bakery where Poilâne bread is made and pick up a loaf for a lunch along the Seine later. Last year I ordered a loaf of bread for Kati's birthday. It was delivered by FedEx and was just as fresh as the one you buy in Paris. You can order a loaf from their web site.
Polidor: 6th Arr., 41 rue Monsieur le Prince, Metro: Odeon.
Near the Luxembourg Gardens. This restaurant is over 100 years old. Hemingway, as well as many other writers, used to eat here. It is like walking into the past. The food is good and reasonable, try their lemon tart, but it is the decor, atmosphere and ambiance that drew me. Check out the floor, woodwork, paintings, ceiling. Perhaps a bit shabby but don't let that stop you from checking it out. An old restaurant with lots of history! NO CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED HERE.
Brasserie Balzar, 49 rue des Écoles, 5th Arr.
For one hundred years until 1998 this had been a family business. Now, owned and operated by the Flo Group (La Coupole, Boeuf sur le Toit, Terminus Nord and Bofinger to name a few) we shall have to wait and see. Adam Gopnik wrote a wonderful article on the Balzar in the 3 August, 1998 edition of The New Yorker. We've enjoyed Brasserie Balzar many times over the year and always look forward to dining there again..
Le Petit Troquet at 28, Rue de l'Exposition in the 7th. Metro École Militaire
Dominique Vessiere, the owner will seat and serve you while her husband, Patrick prepares a wonderful meal for you. We love this restaurant. Madame speaks some English. They are reasonably priced and you'll get good value for you Francs. You must say hello to Madame Vessiere from La Bohème.
Au Petit Tonneau at 20, Rue Surcouf also in the 7th
The owner/chef shops for and prepares all of her food and even serves it. We found it on our last trip and will go back. It has real neighbor French restaurant atmosphere and good prices. Madame seems to have a difficult time finding and keeping good staff (I know the problem). The single waiter one evening was obviously in training, overwhelmed and seemed quite out of place.
Au Marches du Palais at 5, rue de la Manutention, 16 Arr. TEL: 01.47.23.52.80, Metro: Alma-Marceau
We've walked by this restaurant so many times on the way to the Saturday market on ave. Franklin Roosevelt and to the Palais de Tokyo but for some reason we never had a meal there. The menu, traditional, looked good and the decor was, well, typical old french restaurant with white cloths, mirrors, and dark wood panelling.
Their business card is imprinted with the phrase "Maison Serieuse" (serious restaurant) and it was to our pleasant surprise... a serious restaurant with a creative cuisine along traditional lines, friendly/efficient/professional service (one can't ask for more than this) and an interesting and reasonable wine list.
We both ordered the special menu of the evening which consisted of a chilled and very thick creme of asparagus soup garnished with perfectly cooked, tender langoustines. The main course was lightly sauteed espadon (swordfish) with mixed sweet pepper and fresh herb vinaigrette served on a bed of braised carrots and baby fennel. A perfect meal for a very warm evening. Even though the restaurant is not air conditioned we were comfortable sitting inside by a window that opened onto the sidewalk and other diners. Our meal including wine, bottled water, dessert and coffee was 125€. The regular menu main course items range from 12 to 28€. Best to reserve a table.
Before leaving the 7th, I need to mention the restaurant Jules Verne on the 2nd level of the Eiffel Tower.
I suppose the first image one has of Paris is the Eiffel Towerand in spite of what you might think the restaurant Jules Verne is an incredible bargain with lunch costing about $50.00 per person. This is not a "tourist trap"! The first time we lunched there we were honored to meet Chef Alain Reix and I told him that we came for the view but that we would return for the food. We have...many times! The service is impeccable, the wine list is impressive and the food is memorable. Reserve a table for lunch and just go there. You'll not be disappointed.
Le Train Bleu: At the Gare de Lyon (train station) 12th Arr
This restaurant on the first floor was declared a national historical monument in 1972 after being restored in 1968. It is the most beautiful restaurant in Paris and is really something to experience. The decor is characteristic of the turn of the century. If you saw the French movie "La Femme Nikita" you will recognize it immediately. Check out the ceilings! I love their Rum Baba: the server brings the little cake and a bottle of rum to the table. After dousing the cake with rum he will leave the bottle on the table in case you'd like more. In general we've always had a wonderful experience here. When you walk through the heavy curtains at the top of the stairs you'll feel you've stepped back to another time in history.
Le Mule du Pape, 8, rue du Pas de la Mule, Place des Vosges: 3rd Arr. Metro: St. Paul or Chemin Vert.
For a light brunch, lunch or afternoon tea this restaurant in the very old area of Paris called the Marais (marshes), you'll eat well and more likely than not begin a conversation with those at he table next to yours. In the Place des Vosges you find the acclaimed restaurant L'Amboisie. I'll not soon forget the lunch we had there. You must reserve. Coat and tie!
Le Grand Colbert restaurant located on rue Vivienne behind the Palais Royal.
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Maison de la Truffe, 19, Place de la Madeleine, 8th.
I just love the earthy taste and aroma of black truffles and this is THE place to enjoy them whether shaved into in an omlette or baked whole in a flaky puff pastry with truffle, red wine sauce. We come here for lunch after visiting the delightful Fauchon and Hediard food stores also on the Place. Believe me you'll have a appetite after visiting these stores. We prefer Hediard, especially their fruit and vegetable displays, as it seems more approachable.
L'Ebauchoir, 45, rue de Citeaux, 12th Arr. Metro: Charonne
Since 1991 Chef Thomas Dufour (he cooked at the three-star Michelin restaurant Arpège) has a wonderful working man's bistro here in the 12th. In 1995 it was named the best Paris bistro by a local critic. It can be a bit noisy but there is so much life and activity in this small place that you can't help but be fascinated by it and of course the wonderful meals that you choose off the blackboard menu. Hint! Order the rice pudding for dessert! No, that's not a hint. Order it! I recently enjoyed one of the finest, most tender and tasty Filet Mignon steaks that I can remember in Paris.
Le Basilic, 2, rue Casimir Périer, 7th Arr., Metro: Solférino, Tel: 01.44.18.94.64
This fabulous art deco restaurant has everything going for it! It's on a quiet street just behind the Ste-Clotilde church and in nice weather you may lunch or dine on their terrace which looks on the back of the church. From the calm and quiet there one would swear that they are in a small French village. They specalize in roast leg of lamb (18 €) and it is probably the best we've enjoyed in Paris. The menu changes with the season but their leg of lamb is always available. We especially like dining there on Sundays as they are open seven day a week.
Caveau François Villon, 64 rue de l'Arbre Sec, 1st Arr. Tel: 01.42.36.10.92
Le Relais de Venise, "Son Entrecôte", 271, blvd. Péreire at Porte-Maillot.
Serving the same prix-fixe menu for 45 years. Best steak - frites in Paris. The sauce on the steak is to die for! A fun place. No Reservations.
Restaurant Le Soleil, 109, ave Michelet - 93400 ST OUEN, (Metro: Porte de Clignancourt)
Also at 153 rue de Grenelle in the 7th which just opened in December of 2006.
Finally a wonderful place to have lunch after prowling thru the Flea Market on a Saturday or Sunday morning. We lunched their two Saturdays in a row (guess where we spent the morning) and were completely satisfied. Owner, Louis-Jacques Vannucci, is off to a great start with this oaisis. He specializes in seafood but has excellent game dishes. On our first visit M. Vannucci proudly pointed out a few of his other guests...
Telephone Reservations : 01 40 10 08 08 - Fax : 01 40 10 16 85, Open 7/7, Lunch Service until 15h30, Dinner - Service Thursday, Friday and Saturday until 22h30
Order the Paris Café Cookbook now! 